The Healing Timeline
Lip blushing has the most dramatic healing arc of any PMU procedure. The colour that leaves the chair bears almost no resemblance to the colour that settles at six weeks. Understanding this timeline — and communicating it clearly to clients — is as important as the application technique itself.
Days 1-3: the colour appears significantly darker than intended due to oxidation and surface pigment. Swelling peaks at 24-48 hours. The lips may feel tight, warm, and tender. Days 3-5: tightness increases and early peeling begins at the edges. Days 5-10: heavy peeling phase with dramatic lightening — flakes of pigmented skin detach unevenly. Days 10-14: the ghost phase, where colour appears to have vanished entirely. Days 14-28: colour slowly returns as the epidermis regenerates over the implanted pigment. Days 28-42: true settled colour emerges.
This timeline is approximate. Individual healing speed varies with age, immune response, skin type, hydration status, and aftercare compliance. Younger clients with robust healing may complete the cycle in 4 weeks. Older clients or those with compromised healing may take 6-8 weeks. Always quote the longer timeline to clients — they will be pleasantly surprised by early colour return rather than anxious about delayed healing.
The Ghost Phase
Days 10-14 are the most psychologically challenging for clients. The surface pigment has peeled away and the implanted pigment has not yet surfaced through the healing epidermis. The lips appear to have lost all colour. This is the ghost phase, and it is completely normal. Clients who are not warned about this phase will contact you in distress, convinced the procedure has failed.
The ghost phase is not a failure of technique. It is a predictable stage of epidermal healing. The pigment is present in the dermis; it simply is not visible through the regenerating skin. Colour begins returning at days 14-21 and reaches its true settled shade by days 28-42.
Prepare clients for this phase explicitly during the consultation. Show them reference images of the ghost phase alongside the eventual settled result. Some practitioners send a proactive check-in message at day 10 — a simple "Your lips may look like the colour has disappeared. This is the ghost phase and it's completely normal. Colour will start returning over the next 1-2 weeks." This one message prevents more client anxiety than any other single communication.
Colour Evolution by Archetype
Different archetypes heal differently because the initial saturation levels and application patterns differ. Aquarelle (10-20% saturation) shows the most dramatic ghost phase because the initial deposit is so minimal — clients may genuinely believe all colour is gone. Reassure them that the subtle result will return. Lip Blush (30-50%) follows the standard timeline with moderate peeling and visible colour return by week 3. Ombré heals with the gradient partially flattening — the dark border lightens more than the centre, which is expected and accounts for the slightly oversaturated border applied during the procedure.
Full Lip Colour heals with the most peeling and the most dramatic lightening. Clients should expect to retain 30-50% of the applied saturation from each session, building density across multiple appointments. Dark Lip Neutralisation follows its own timeline entirely — the corrective pigment settles over 8-10 weeks rather than 4-6, and the result is assessed for residual darkness before any decorative colour is introduced.
Aftercare Protocol Design
Aftercare is not one-size-fits-all. Each technique archetype has different aftercare requirements based on saturation level and tissue trauma. The universal aftercare rules apply across all archetypes: no direct sun exposure for 14 days, no swimming or submersion for 10 days, no spicy or acidic food for 7 days, blot rather than wipe, apply prescribed healing balm with clean fingers only, and sleep elevated for the first 2-3 nights to reduce swelling.
Beyond universals, adapt to the individual. Dry-healing (no balm, just clean and dry) tends to preserve more pigment but creates a longer, more uncomfortable peeling phase. Wet-healing (regular balm application) creates a more comfortable experience but can lift some pigment during the softened peeling phase. Neither is universally superior — the choice depends on the archetype, the client's skin type, and their ability to comply with the protocol.
When Healing Goes Wrong
Normal healing follows a predictable arc. Abnormal healing requires immediate recognition and appropriate response. Signs that warrant concern: persistent swelling beyond 72 hours, pus or yellow discharge (distinct from clear lymph fluid), spreading redness beyond the lip border, fever, or significant pain that increases rather than decreases after day 2.
If infection is suspected, do not advise the client to continue with standard aftercare. Refer them to their GP or an urgent care clinic immediately. Document the timeline, photograph the presentation, and follow up. An infection caught early is treatable with antibiotics and typically resolves without long-term pigment damage. An infection that is ignored compounds into scarring, complete pigment loss, and potential legal liability.
Client Communication During Healing
Establish a communication protocol before the procedure. Tell the client exactly when to contact you (specific symptoms), when to contact a medical professional (signs of infection), and when to simply wait (normal peeling, ghost phase, temporary unevenness). Providing a printed or digital aftercare card with a clear decision tree reduces unnecessary anxiety calls while ensuring genuine concerns reach you promptly.
Case Study: Ghost Phase Panic
A client messages at day 12 with a photograph showing virtually no visible colour on her lips. She is convinced the procedure has failed and requests an immediate touch-up or refund. Her original procedure was Lip Blush with moderate saturation on Fitzpatrick II skin.
The diagnostic assessment: Fitzpatrick II skin has a thin epidermis that peels quickly and completely. The ghost phase on fair skin is more dramatic than on darker skin because there is less natural pigmentation masking the transition. At day 12, this is textbook ghost phase — not a failed procedure.
The response: compare her day-12 photograph against the pre-procedure baseline (no enhancement visible) and the day-0 photograph (immediately post-procedure). Explain that the pigment is present in the dermis and will become visible as the epidermis finishes regenerating, typically by days 18-25 on her skin type. Schedule a check-in at day 28 to assess the true settled result. If colour has not returned by day 35, then discuss whether a touch-up session is warranted. Do not perform a touch-up during active healing — additional trauma to incompletely healed tissue produces poor retention and risks scarring.