Brow Assessment

The Assessment Mindset

Modules 1 and 2 taught you to understand where brows should be positioned (mapping) and why certain positions work on certain faces (structural logic). This module teaches you to understand what you are actually working with. The existing brow in all its complexity.

Before any treatment begins, thorough assessment ensures you understand the raw material. Assessment isn't a formality to rush through before starting the "real" work. It is the diagnostic foundation for every decision that follows. Skip or shortcut assessment, and you will make avoidable errors. Invest in thorough assessment, and your subsequent decisions become clearer and more confident.

The assessment mindset is observational, systematic, and non-judgmental. You are gathering information, not making decisions yet. The goal is complete understanding: what is here, what condition is it in, what patterns exist, what history has shaped it, and what the client hopes to achieve. With complete understanding, design decisions become straightforward.

Assessment also serves a communication function. When you articulate your observations to the client. "I notice you have quite sparse growth in the tail area, likely from over-plucking in the past". You demonstrate expertise and build trust. The client sees that you aren't just going through motions but genuinely analysing their unique situation.

The VELONÉ Assessment Framework

The VELONÉ system organises assessment into five sequential steps, each building on the previous. Following this sequence ensures comprehensive evaluation without overlooking critical factors.

Step 1: Overall Observation

Begin by observing the brows from a normal conversational distance, approximately an arm's length away. Don't move close or begin examining details yet. First impressions from normal viewing distance often reveal what the client themselves sees when they look in the mirror.

Note your initial observations: What is your overall impression of shape? How does density appear: full, moderate, sparse? Is colour consistent or variable? Do the brows appear symmetric from this distance, or does asymmetry immediately present? What is the current grooming state; well-maintained, overgrown, over-plucked?

Record these first impressions before moving closer. They provide a baseline that you will refine with detailed examination, and they often capture what the client experiences daily when they evaluate their own brows at the bathroom mirror.

Step 2: Growth Pattern Analysis

Now move closer to examine hair direction throughout each zone. Hair doesn't grow uniformly across the brow; it follows patterns that vary between zones and between individuals. Understanding these patterns is essential for both shaping decisions and future maintenance recommendations.

In the head zone, hair typically grows upward and slightly outward. Some clients have heads that grow more vertically; others have a distinct lateral angle. Note the predominant direction and any variations within the zone.

In the body zone, hair typically transitions from the upward head pattern to a more lateral, outward direction. This transition zone sometimes contains whorls, points where hair direction changes abruptly in a circular pattern. Whorls require special attention during shaping because hair around them resists lying flat.

In the tail zone, hair typically grows in a more downward and outward direction, following the natural taper of the brow. Some tails have consistent direction; others have chaotic patterns that make styling difficult.

Document the growth pattern for each zone. Note any whorls, cowlicks (areas where hair grows contrary to surrounding pattern), or sparse patches where follicles appear absent or dormant.

Step 3: Density Mapping

Assess hair density throughout the brow, documenting variations that will affect both design possibilities and client expectations. Density assessment requires zone-by-zone evaluation because density commonly varies significantly from head to tail.

For each zone, classify density as full (no scalp/skin visible between hairs), moderate (some skin visible but still good coverage), or sparse (significant skin visible, obvious gaps). Note specific areas of particular fullness or sparseness.

Common density patterns include: full head with moderate body and sparse tail (typical aging or over-plucking pattern); sparse head with full body and tail (often genetic or medical); patchy distribution throughout (may indicate past trauma, scarring, or medical condition); consistent density throughout (relatively rare, often genetic gift).

Density mapping informs realistic expectations. A sparse tail can't become a full tail through shaping alone; it will require product enhancement or permanent makeup to achieve fuller appearance. Documenting density ensures you and the client have aligned expectations about what shaping can and can't accomplish.

Step 4: Hair Characteristics

Beyond direction and density, examine the characteristics of individual hairs: thickness, texture, length, and colour. These properties affect both the appearance of the shaped brow and the techniques you will employ.

Thickness: Some clients have thick, coarse individual hairs that create strong visual presence even with fewer follicles. Others have fine, delicate hairs that require greater density to achieve the same visual weight. Note whether individual hairs are thick, medium, or fine.

Texture: Hair may be straight, wavy, or curly. Straight brow hair lies flat and is easiest to style. Wavy or curly brow hair may require lamination or styling products to achieve a groomed appearance. Note the natural texture and any resistance to lying flat.

Length: Some brow hairs grow quite long before shedding; others remain short. Length affects whether trimming will be part of the service and how much styling control is needed. Note whether hairs extend beyond the natural brow boundary or remain contained.

Colour: Note the natural colour and any variations: grey hairs, lighter hairs at the tail, darker hairs at the head. Colour variation affects tinting decisions and overall appearance. Also note the contrast between brow colour and skin colour, as this affects how defined the brows appear naturally.

Step 5: Skin Condition

The skin beneath and around the brows affects treatment options and healing. Examine for sensitivity, scarring, active conditions, and overall skin type.

Sensitivity: Ask about and look for signs of sensitive skin: redness, reactivity, thin or delicate appearance. Sensitivity affects healing response and may require adjusted pigment saturation, lighter technique, or modified aftercare protocols.

Scarring: Note any scars within or adjacent to the brow area. Scars typically show no hair growth and may have different texture than surrounding skin. Document scar locations as they represent permanent gaps that shaping can't address.

Active conditions: Look for signs of eczema, psoriasis, acne, or other skin conditions in the brow area. Active conditions may contraindicate certain treatments or require medical clearance before proceeding.

Skin type: Note whether skin appears oily, dry, or combination in the brow area. This affects how products adhere and how long grooming lasts between appointments.

Common Brow Conditions

Certain conditions appear frequently enough to warrant specific recognition and response strategies.

Over-Plucking History

Previously over-plucked brows often show sparse patches, particularly in areas that were repeatedly plucked over years. Some follicles remain dormant and may regrow with time and stimulation. Others are permanently damaged and will never produce hair again.

Distinguishing dormant from damaged follicles is difficult without extended observation. If a client stopped over-plucking within the past 1-2 years, there is reasonable hope for regrowth. If over-plucking occurred for decades and ceased years ago with no regrowth, permanent damage is more likely.

Document over-plucking history through client interview and visible evidence. Note specific sparse areas and discuss realistic expectations. Many clients with over-plucking history will need enhancement options (tinting, microblading, powder brows) to achieve their desired fullness.

Asymmetric Natural Growth

Most clients have some degree of natural asymmetry in their brow growth, with one side slightly fuller, higher, longer, or differently shaped than the other. This is completely normal; perfect symmetry is rare.

Document asymmetries precisely: "Left head is approximately 3mm fuller than right. Right arch sits approximately 2mm higher than left. Left tail extends approximately 4mm further than right." Precise documentation enables informed design decisions about whether to equalise, minimise, or work with natural asymmetry.

Scar Tissue

Scars in the brow area may result from injuries, surgeries, piercings, or acne. Scar tissue typically shows no hair growth and may have different texture or colour than surrounding skin.

For small scars within the brow, options include designing around them (incorporating the gap as part of the shape), camouflaging with product, or permanent makeup to simulate hair. For larger scars or scars at the brow boundary, design may need to accommodate the structural change.

Medical Hair Loss

Various medical conditions can cause brow hair loss: thyroid dysfunction, alopecia areata, chemotherapy effects, nutritional deficiencies, or autoimmune conditions. If you suspect medical hair loss (sudden onset, unusual pattern, complete loss of sections), recommend medical consultation before proceeding with cosmetic treatment.

Don't attempt to diagnose medical conditions. Simply note observations that suggest medical evaluation would be appropriate and communicate this recommendation sensitively.

Client History Interview

Visual assessment reveals the current state. Client history explains how it came to be and what the client hopes to change. Conduct a brief structured interview as part of assessment.

Current routine: "What is your typical brow routine? How often do you have them shaped? What do you do at home between appointments?" This reveals maintenance habits and expectations about upkeep frequency.

Treatment history: "What treatments have you had on your brows before? Any permanent makeup, tinting, lamination, or other services?" Past treatments affect current options and may explain certain conditions.

Satisfaction level: "What do you like about your current brows? What would you change if you could?" This reveals priorities and desired outcomes. Some clients want dramatic change; others want subtle refinement of what they have.

Sensitivities and concerns: "Do you have any skin sensitivities or allergies I should know about? Any medications that might affect your skin or hair?" This identifies contraindications and necessary precautions.

Lifestyle factors: "How much time are you willing to spend on your brows daily? How often can you realistically come for maintenance?" This ensures recommendations fit the client's actual life, not an ideal scenario they can't maintain.

Case Example: The Regrowth Journey

A client presents requesting fuller brows. She over-plucked for years in the 1990s and early 2000s. Your assessment reveals: sparse tail zones bilaterally (skin clearly visible), moderate body zones, relatively full heads. Growth pattern shows normal direction but reduced follicle count. No scarring visible. Skin condition normal.

Client history confirms: stopped over-plucking about 3 years ago, has been trying to grow brows back, frustrated by lack of progress. She maintains current shape through tweezing strays only, no professional shaping in the regrowth period.

Your assessment documentation enables a productive consultation: "Based on what I see, you have good potential in the head and body areas, but the tails show significant long-term follicle damage from years of plucking. We can absolutely create a beautiful shape with what you have, and I'd recommend stopping all removal in the tail area to see if any additional regrowth occurs over the next six months. For the fullness you're hoping for in the tails, we should discuss enhancement options like tinting or microshading."

Without thorough assessment, this conversation would be guesswork. With assessment, it is grounded professional guidance.

Documentation Protocol

Assessment is only valuable if documented. Create a standardised record for each client that captures your findings and enables consistent follow-up.

Visual documentation: Photograph both brows before any treatment. Use consistent lighting, angle, and distance. These images become the baseline for tracking changes over time and for communicating with the client about progress.

Written assessment: Use a standardised form covering all framework areas: overall impression, growth patterns by zone, density by zone, hair characteristics, skin condition, relevant history, and client goals. A template ensures you never forget to assess a critical element.

Recommendations: Based on assessment, note recommended treatments and realistic expectations. Be specific: "Recommend shaping to enhance natural arch. Discuss tinting to increase density appearance. Set expectation that tail fullness will require enhancement beyond shaping alone."

Contraindications: Note any factors that limit treatment options or require special precautions. These must be documented for safety and liability purposes.

Success Criteria

You have mastered this module when you can:

• Complete a comprehensive assessment in under 10 minutes without rushing
• Accurately classify density as full, moderate, or sparse for each zone
• Identify and document growth patterns including whorls and cowlicks
• Recognise signs that warrant referral for medical evaluation
• Conduct a client history interview that reveals relevant information without feeling like an interrogation
• Create documentation that another practitioner could use to understand the client's situation completely