Section App. F: Tools, Blades & Pigment Systems Reference

Appendix F: Tools, Blades & Pigment Systems Reference

This appendix is a quick-reference guide for equipment selection. It does not recommend specific brands or products, as the market changes frequently. Instead, it describes categories, their characteristics, and the clinical situations where each is most and least appropriate. Use this alongside the diagnostic blade selection methodology in Chapter 11.

Microblading Blade Categories

U-blades (curved): Needles arranged in a curved configuration. The curved edge creates slightly rounded stroke ends that mimic natural hair taper. Best suited to naturalistic hairstroke work on normal-to-dry skin where soft, organic-looking strokes are the goal. Less effective on oily or thick skin where the curved edge may not penetrate consistently, producing uneven pigment deposit.

Flat blades (linear): Needles arranged in a straight line. Available in various counts (7, 9, 11, 12, 14 needles). Higher needle counts produce wider strokes and carry more pigment per pass. Lower counts produce finer strokes with greater precision. A 7-pin flat suits detailed work and thinner skin; a 12 or 14-pin suits fuller coverage on thicker skin. Flat blades produce more angular stroke ends than U-blades, which reads as slightly more defined and structured.

Nano blades: Fine-gauge needle configurations designed for the most detailed work. Produce the finest strokes with the least tissue disruption. Excellent for thin or sensitive skin, delicate areas (inner head fade, tail taper), and clients where minimal trauma is essential. Carry less pigment per pass, which means multiple passes may be needed for adequate saturation on thicker or oilier skin. Not ideal as a primary blade for full brow coverage on resistant skin.

Flexi blades: Configurations with increased flexibility that adapt to the contour of the tissue during the stroke. Can reduce trauma on uneven surfaces and may feel more forgiving for practitioners still developing pressure control. However, the flexibility can reduce precision on firm skin where a rigid blade would maintain a more consistent wound channel.

Machine Cartridge Categories

Round liner (1RL, 3RL): Single needle or tight cluster for individual dot-and-drag hairstroke simulation. The 1RL produces the finest possible machine stroke; the 3RL offers slightly more pigment capacity with marginally wider strokes. Best for crisp, defined hairstrokes. Requires precise hand speed control — too slow creates excessive trauma; too fast creates superficial, poorly saturated strokes.

Shader (3RS, 5RS): Round shader configurations with needles arranged in a looser cluster. Create softer, more diffused pigment deposit than liners. Used for powder/ombré effects, shading between hairstrokes, and building soft density. Not suitable for crisp individual strokes — the wider needle spread prevents the tight definition needed for hairstroke work.

Curved magnum (5CM, 7CM): Needles arranged in staggered rows with a curved profile. Designed for broader coverage with smooth, even pigment distribution. The curved arrangement reduces hard lines and produces gradual transitions. Best for ombré work, powder brows, and blending zones (head fade, arch transitions). The broader footprint makes them unsuitable for fine detail work.

Flat magnum (5FM, 7FM): Needles in staggered rows with a flat profile. Similar coverage to curved magnums but with a more uniform, less graduated deposit pattern. Can produce slightly harder edges than curved magnums. Used where even, consistent coverage is needed without the soft-gradient effect.

Machine Types

Rotary pen-style: The current industry standard for most PMU brow work. Motor-driven needle oscillation with adjustable stroke length and speed. Ergonomic pen grip allows natural hand positioning. Stroke length (typically adjustable between 1.5mm and 3.5mm) affects penetration depth: shorter strokes for superficial work on thin skin, longer strokes for thicker skin requiring deeper deposit. Speed affects trauma level and pigment saturation.

Traditional coil: Electromagnetic-driven machines. Generally heavier with more vibration. Less common in brow work but still used by some practitioners for specific applications. The heavier weight and different vibration profile require adapted hand technique.

Pigment System Considerations

Organic pigments: Carbon-based colour compounds. Tend to fade more predictably but may shift in undertone over time (browns can shift warm or cool depending on composition). Generally require more frequent refreshing. As discussed in Chapter 8, undertone shift must be anticipated during colour selection.

Inorganic pigments: Mineral oxide-based compounds. Typically more colour-stable over time with less undertone shift. Can be more opaque initially. Often retain longer but may be harder to correct or remove if needed.

Hybrid formulations: Combining organic and inorganic components. Aim to balance the colour stability of inorganics with the natural fade profile of organics. Performance varies significantly by manufacturer and formulation.

Viscosity: Thinner pigments flow more easily into wound channels but may spread beyond the intended deposit zone. Thicker pigments stay put but may require more passes for saturation. Match viscosity to technique: thinner for machine work where rapid needle action pulls pigment into tissue, thicker for manual work where the blade channel needs to hold pigment in place.

Measurement and Documentation Tools

Digital callipers: For precise millimetre measurements of brow dimensions, spacing, and symmetry. Essential for the documentation standards described in Chapters 1 and 2.

Flexible marked rulers: For measurements that follow facial contours rather than straight lines. Useful for arc measurements and circumferential assessments.

Brow mapping tools: Various designs (string, pre-marked rulers, digital overlay systems) for landmark identification and design transfer. The specific tool matters less than the mapping methodology — any tool that allows precise, repeatable landmark placement works.

Standardised photography: Consistent lighting, angle, and distance for before/during/after documentation. A dedicated setup produces more useful documentation than phone photos taken at variable angles. Consider a fixed position with marked distances for repeatability.

Tool Maintenance

All blades and needle cartridges are single-use. No exceptions. Dispose according to local sharps regulations. Reusable tools (machines, callipers, rulers, mapping tools) must be cleaned and sterilised between clients according to manufacturer specifications and regulatory requirements. Pigments should be stored at manufacturer-recommended temperatures away from direct light. Check expiry dates. Pigment consistency changes over time and expired product may perform unpredictably.